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Old 10-24-2013, 04:23 PM   #11
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Thanks guys for your help in this matter.
jrsick, I have not ever changed the manifolds. I puchased the boat this summer.
What or how much of the manifolds would need to be replaced? Upper, elbow, riser etc..
mmwjr & jrsick is there any way to test for Intake Gasket failure or Exhaust Manifold failure without removing them?
spydie, lots of good comments. I think your problem is the manifold based on your post saying that the engine ran fine last time you used it. With a failed head gasket, you should have noticed reduced power and rough running and idling. I doubt it is an intake gasket; this also causes reduced power as air leaks into the vacuum.
If it is the manifold, you will probably just need the manifold and not the other components you mention.
The quickest way to confirm or eliminate head gasket is a compression check. If not the head gasket, then next step is to remove the manifold.
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:45 PM   #12
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Last time I used my boat -year 2000 2300SC 5.7 Liter - it ran flawlessly, this was several weeks ago. I went to winterize it last weekend and it wouldn't even turn over - I actually got it to turn about a quarter turn.
This symptom certainly suggests to me that there could be water in a cylinder. Water doesn't compress so when that piston/cylinder combo came up on it's compression stroke it hydrolocked. Removing the plugs will tell you for sure, water will come out.

I agree, Mike, I don't see how a leaking manifold could dump a gallon of water past the rings after the engine was shut down. And if it were leaking into a cyl while the engine was last running I think there would have been some signs; like steam from the exhaust or the engine developed a miss or two.

Step one:remove spark plugs and inspect. If any of the tips are white it means that those cylinders are burning water (the water is "steam cleaning" the tips of the spark plugs. If none are white, water was not getting into the cylinder(s) while the engine was running.
Step two: With the plugs removed attempt to turn the crankshaft by hand several revolutions.
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:50 PM   #13
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You guys are the BEST! Many thanks for all of your help!!
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:54 PM   #14
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I wished I had more daylight and a better pressure tester. I borrowed it from the local Oreileys. It did work but...
I pulled the plugs, all of them were obviously wet except for #s 5 & 7, they didn't seem as wet as the others. I hooked up a (later found to be very weak) battery and cranked. All of the plug holes spit out water, rusty colored water. The back cylinders seemed to spit out more water than the front. After turning it over a few times I spayed fogging oil into each hole and turned over a few more times, then repeated. I let it sit for about an hour while pulling the oil filter which had no signs of water whatsoever - see pic.
I then took pressure tests, 1,3,5 & 7 only read 100 lbs ea. but the battery barely made it past the last cylinder (I did #7 1st and worked farward). I put in a fresh battery and went to the other side which had readings between 175 - 200 lbs. I went to re-check the 1-7 side again and the gauge quit reading so I do not know how accurate any of the readings were. By sound, all of the cylinders sounded to have the same amount of resistance on the starter motor.oil filter.jpgplugs.jpg
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:44 PM   #15
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So no signs of water at the oil filter but you stated 1 gallon in the pan, not sure what to make of this other than the water did not enter the system when the engine was last ran and drain into it after shut down.

When you did the compression test were all the sprk plugs out? If so the engine should turn easily as no compression exist except cylinder with the tester on it. I would go buy a new compression tester (~$50) and recheck the odd bank with the fresh battery. If the reading are unchanged I would suspect the exhaust vavles are burnt.

How many hours are on this engine? Origional exhaust? Right now I am thinking both sides of exhaust are bad to get water on both side yet have good compression (at least on one side). But this doesn't account for a gallon of water in the pan. Are you sure it was water and not overfilled with oil?
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:24 PM   #16
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I recommend that you get a battery charger. You will use it often. It's good to know that battery is 100% before a weekend on the lake. I've got a single battery so it's a big deal to me.
good luck with the compression check.
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:09 PM   #17
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mmwjr: it is water, I pumped it into a windshield washer container. the container is full with about 1/2" of oil on top & the transition from water to oil is about a 1/4" of foam but the water is clear.
I bought the boat this summer, it ran very well. No hour meter. Seller said the boat sat for 7-8 years. I had the carb pulled & rebuilt & gave it a complete tune up. One thing that I remember that I thought was odd is the old cap looked very new. I posted here earlier this year regarding my issues with the carb (and my mis-diagnosing). It was blowing a ton of carbon. I doubt the manifolds had been changed.
I think I have it winterized well enough to let it sit and open it back up in the spring.
I had seen something in the past that brings me to a question. A few years back I was on a friend's boat which ended up having some type of issue that caused it to overheat. We sat for a while to let it cool off but once we got going again, he was hell bent on making it to the dock - and did. I went over to help him give it a lookover and pulled the outdrive off and found the rubber flappers that should have been inside the exhaust had melted and were wrapped around the shift linkage (at the out-drive connection). I am curious if a misfire or "carb cough" during shut down could suck water up to the point of what I have going on - if these flappers were missing. It seems far-fetched to me but the situation I have seems very out of the ordinary.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:44 PM   #18
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is that water into oil, or water into wine..... I'm confused....?
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:58 PM   #19
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spydie, you bring up some interesting questions about carb cough and melted flappers. I think the probable cause of your problem has been discussed in this thread, but since you're interested in far-fetched ideas I'm glad to throw a few out. You've got all winter to research so take a look at "hydrolock" and "reversion". I'm definitely no expert, but understand these to occur with high degree cams, and carb cough may provide similar conditions. Do you know if your engine has had mods to the cam or exhaust? Just putting it out there.
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Old 10-29-2013, 02:31 AM   #20
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spyder yes if the flapper valves are missing water could flow back into the cylinders but once again I don't see how a large amount of water would get past the rings and into the oil pan. Maybe this could happen over a long time but I would think more than 1 season and you said that you had changed the oil earlier this year. H the engine ever overheated for you? I had a friend who overheated his engine and after replacing the water pump and exhaust ran fine the rest of the year only to have similar story as you the next. It resulted in a rebuilt long block.

BTY what cap are you refering too? oil, heat exchanger (closed cooling)?

Once again I would recheck the compression with a new guage and fresh battery.
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