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Old 11-10-2014, 11:32 AM   #21
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Yes, you would have to take it out, or get to the back of it somehow, then just test for continuity between the terminals in the various positions.

Yes, you will want to disconnect the battery when not in use and/or keep the battery on a charger/battery maintainer. I would think your boat has a battery switch, doesn't it?
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:09 PM   #22
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To test the ignition switch there should be no continuity between B and any other terminal when the key is in the off position. When the key is in the run position there should be continuity between B and I terminals and final when the key is in the start position there should be continuity between all terminals; B, I, and C.

Once you have charged the battery and try to start the boat do you hear a click, does it crank, anything?

While it is preferred to disconnect the battery when not in use to me there is an issue that something is drawing a fair amount of power that is not being switched off when the engine is off. Is there electronics directly wired to the battery?
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:02 PM   #23
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^^^ What he said. :-)
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:15 PM   #24
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The stereo amplifier is connected to the battery via a massive cable that has its own fuse. @ Kevlar7r- Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get a good charge on the battery but even a decent charge yesterday had absolutely no clicking or anything when switching the key to the run position, as stated before, not even the low oil pressure alarm sounds! If my boat has a battery switch, I have no clue where it is?
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Old 11-10-2014, 11:18 PM   #25
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Why don't you try disconnecting the battery, and hooking the charger up directly. What size is your battery charger? Hopefully at least 10 amps. 24 hours on that should get you there.
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Old 11-11-2014, 12:24 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevlar7r View Post
Why don't you try disconnecting the battery, and hooking the charger up directly. What size is your battery charger? Hopefully at least 10 amps. 24 hours on that should get you there.
+1 is the amp on a switch? If not it is drawing power all the time including from the battery charger. Disconnect it a and see if the battery charges faster

PS a battery switch will not disconnect that amp that is directly wired to the battery
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Old 11-12-2014, 07:47 PM   #27
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Ok so I connected a loose wire I had laying around in the garage to the positive on the stereo amp, (which the test light showed I have constant power) to the constant power prong on the back of the key switch and voila, turn the key and everything works, both alarm beep and the boat cranks! Key switch is fine now to follow that constant power line (purple with red stripe) back and see where the fault is!
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Old 11-12-2014, 09:08 PM   #28
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BWAHAHAHAHAHAH.....HAHAHAHAHA....


Ok now I can stop laughing at myself. (typing while having a couple whisky's!)

I traced that power wire back to the fuse panel, I checked the fuses though, remember!? Well I decided to throw a brand new fuse is there and done! The fuse I did pull out was not blown, just had some corrosion going on inside. I guess a fuse doesn't need to be 'blown' to be bad! At least I can say I learned a bit about the electrical system in the boat!

Supposed to be 78 this weekend so I notified the folks of a re-schedule, looks like a Sunday-funday on the water, with a little bar hopping & football mixed in! Thanks to all for the help, especially mmwjr (Mike)! Now back to this whisky...
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:57 PM   #29
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Yup. Welcome to boating!!!! Glad it ended up being something simple!!! What's the whisky of choice?
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:29 AM   #30
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Knob Creek for today! I mix it up and typically drink what we have in the house at the time.
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