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Old 05-27-2017, 12:47 PM   #11
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Sorry I should clarify I put the in the key and turned it to the right and had power when the switch was in off...I did not try to start engine

I am not sure yet if anything stopped working
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Old 05-27-2017, 12:52 PM   #12
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Lol! Thanks Don..ya never know it could be something simple right?...but I took the picture as I was trying different scenarios....before I sent the post I made sure that the off switch worked/no power to the dash....then when I attached back the red/black...i had power at the dashboard
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Old 05-27-2017, 01:45 PM   #13
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On a different topic is that an exposed solder joint on the lower wire near the fuse holder? If so it needs to be corrected to prevent a short.
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Old 05-27-2017, 01:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bman440440 View Post
red/brown should be to your float switch(engine bilge)... always wired directly to your battery... the red/black I presume is an power lead to the dash... how it got there I do not know(and possibly its supposed to go to your forward bilge float)... 1st do you keep your boat in the water? if so you MUST make sure your float switches (engine bilge and cabin bilge) have power from the battery and do NOT go threw the guest switch... once you find those power leads to the floats and make sure they are wired directly to the battery take all the other leads and connect to the "feed" post of the guest selector switch as well as make sure that the main power lead to the starter is connected to the feed lead as well... that should solve your problem and make sure that you are properly wired as well
yes boat is water.. and agree that those pumps can not go thru the switch.

your other point is the only possible solution.. do I need hardware to do this?
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Old 05-27-2017, 01:47 PM   #15
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As stated on set of wires is probably for the float switch of the bilge pump. Seems as though the other is connected to something at the helm. I would look at the helm wiring fir the red/black wire to see where it is connected.
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Old 05-27-2017, 02:12 PM   #16
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I think its just a piece of tape.. I will check it out though.. thanks
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Old 05-27-2017, 02:12 PM   #17
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will do thanks again for all the assistance!
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Old 05-27-2017, 03:03 PM   #18
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Quote:
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yes boat is water.. and agree that those pumps can not go thru the switch.

your other point is the only possible solution.. do I need hardware to do this?
no new hardware needed... just make sure ALL of your float switches have power direct from battery and connect everything else to the "feed" of the selector switch including the heavy power lead that goes directly to the starter
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Old 05-30-2017, 01:28 PM   #19
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In the picture, both batteries are sharing a common ground (Yellow). Each has a separate positive (Red), which should be going to the battery switch. What are those small wires with the black (dongle) attached?

To me, those small black wires look like they are cross connecting the positive sides of the battery. This would put them into a parallel configuration, essentially making them one large battery bank. It almost looks like you've essentially bypassed the battery switch and are completing the circuit to the starter solenoid inadvertently.
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Old 05-30-2017, 02:07 PM   #20
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I have two guesses... The previous owner had an issue where the bilge pump killed the battery, so they essentially ran two power wires back to the batteries hoping if it happened again they would have a longer period to run the bilge? Doing this would cause the issue as the would both meet up at the bilge pump. Secondly, you have a positive wire on one battery positive terminal, and the other wire is a ground attached to the 2nd battery's positive terminal. (I doubt this one though as you have a fuse on both wires. Disconnect them and with a multi-meter, see if you have continuity.
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