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Old 05-10-2015, 03:29 PM   #21
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Yea my theory above did NOT pan out. ....I still can't figure out how I'm supposed to work this. ...lol
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Old 05-10-2015, 03:38 PM   #22
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For what it's worth.....I am close with an owner of a 1997 3200 scr.....he purchased brand new and ordered the boat to his liking....even Maxum at the time of delivery could not explain how to have the 2 perko switches set. I have ran my boat with the switches set to both for over 5 years now. I manage my usage when away from dock power. I just don't see the benefit of me spending close to 20 hours tracing, rewireing, and setting this up correctly. I wish it was wired correct, but hopefully on the next boat it will be "turnkey".......
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Old 05-10-2015, 05:03 PM   #23
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I did pull my switch panel to take a look. I found that the co2 detectors bilge pumps and vacuflush head are wired directly to the hot side of the port battery so they always are drawing power no matter what the switch position is. The house loads and engines are connected to the starboard battery by the switch, but the stereo is connected directly to the starboard battery. I assume this is so that the stereo will not loose its memory of preset stations if the battey is turned off. So in theory if both batteres are switched to 1 each will start a separate engine and the likely hood of both running dead is minimal as the port loads should be minimal when at anchor
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:53 AM   #24
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Clarification- each engine is connected the respective battery separately. I know it sounded like both batteries were connected to the starboard battery in my previous post
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Old 05-11-2015, 02:14 AM   #25
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After tearing down and tracing my wiring, I found the same set up. I keep my switches on 1. This has worked out, as I ran my port/house battery down, was able to start mt starboard, switch batteries to both, start my port, and switch back to 1 on both switches.
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Old 05-15-2015, 07:40 PM   #26
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Now that I have some time I have confirmed that the following is my setup. When I say Bow and Stern I am referring to the physical position of the 2 batteries since they sit fore and aft on my port side.
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:08 PM   #27
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Whatever is on that picture is microscopic and unreadable.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:28 PM   #28
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I've owned several boats, and every one was wired a different way than I like it.

I prefer a dedicated house battery, that way if my kids, (or wife) leave a light on, I don't come back to a completely dead boat.

I also don't like deep cycling my starter batteries as it shortens life, (even on marine dual purpose batteries).

Optimum is to buy an isolator to charge the house battery off of both alternators, and an isolated charger with 2 * 5 amp, and 1 * 20 amp circuit.

A crossover/parallel switch for the two starting batteries, (each connected directly to an engine starter, and alternator), and a master cutoff for the house.

I would rather need to use a flashlight, and still be able to start both engines, than have lights & radio, but dead engines.


I also don't like not being able to start an engine because of a bad, (switch, isolator, diode, battery, wire, alternator, etc...).

If you parallel the alternators with a diode pack, and one fails, you aren't going to know it, until they BOTH fail.

With dedicated batteries for each engine, you know immediately which one isn't charging, and can still start it on the crossover.
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:41 PM   #29
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I have a 1998 2400 scr. 2 batteries and a 4 position switch. Anybody have a diagram or explaination on which is which ? Or do I go exploring this weekend ?
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:11 PM   #30
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The switch has 4 positions

Off, both batteries disconnected
Bat 1, battery one powering the boat
Bat 2, battery two powering the boat
Both, both powering the boat. This should only be used if both a to low to start the boat.
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