Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-28-2013, 03:29 PM   #11
Commander
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Purcellville, VA.
Posts: 295
Default

Todd, you can use a test light for draw as well. Just disconnect the negative cable from battery and connect the test light between the battery and the negative cable. The light will come on and the brightness of it will increase or decrease with load level.
I like using a light as it is easier to see from afar
Are you sure there are no other connections at the battery? I would assume that you have 1 positive and 1 negative cable going from the battery to the switch. You state that the bilge is hot too so there must be those cables connected to the battery as well, are there any others or just those? They could also have connected some wires to the input side of the switch so check there too.
Could there be corrosion inside the switch causing some voltage leak across the Off and On positions?
All it really takes is radio clock/memory draw to cause a spark and if that is all of it, the light will barely be lit when connected between the cable and battery.

So to clarify, disconnect negative cable from battery.
Connect alligator clamp from test light to battery post.
Jam the probe end of the test light into the cable end (normally you can wedge it in the stud hole).
Let there be light :-)
__________________

mcoffey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2013, 05:24 PM   #12
Admiral

 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Default

There are any number of devices that, even when "off", are still drawing power; the radio is a prime example. The radio will probably have a red/+ (main power), black/-, and yellow/memory. Red/+ (main power) could be wired to a switched source, like the ignition or battery switch, but the yellow is supposed to be wired to an un-switched 12V source. Some amplifiers are also set up to switch to "stand by" mode when the radio is turned off.

Mechanical bilge pump float switches don't draw any power, they just close/complete a circuit. An electronic one might, and a high water alarm also might. I suppose it's possible that a switch might have enough crud built up on it that it might bridge, allowing some current to pass, but nto too likely.

Regardless, pulling the fuses one at a time should find it. I'd start with the radio though.
__________________

ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2013, 08:32 PM   #13
Lt. Commander
 
jrsick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 139
Default

Do you have anything connected directly to the battery? Are there any small black or red wires connected to the battery terminals? If so, they are drawing a load. Probably nothing to worry about but you may want to fuse them if you're concerned.
jrsick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2013, 01:15 PM   #14
Commander
 
9Ball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hollywood, MD
Posts: 437
Default

There are things connected directly to battery. However they are not drawing any power. (ie: trailer switch is connected to battery but does not draw power till the switch is pushed.)

I hope to do a "draw test" same as you would on a car next weekend. Ill keep everyone posted on how to do this test and ill post pictures as well.

Todd

Sent from my VS920 4G using Tapatalk 2
__________________

9Ball is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.