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Old 09-03-2013, 02:52 PM   #11
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Define "would not start". Do you mean the engine would not "crank" or "turn over"? Or do you mean the engine would crank/turn over but would not start running?
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:21 PM   #12
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the original circuit breaker was working correctly, as you do have a short.

It was telling you that, and your tossed it in the trash.

So, you have a short, or battery cable bare and rubbing on the engine block.

Again, disconnect every wire off the battery and pull all the fuses under the dash, and then go for a boat ride.

Run the engine only, wiring.

Keep installing back until you can repeat the problem.
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Old 09-11-2013, 01:29 PM   #13
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The CB is no longer popping after it was replaced. Going to go through the wiring and check for rubbing and loose connections and disconnect the fuse block (as recommended). I also checked the idle RPM's and plan to check the ignition timing and exhaust flappers.
I believe that either I have a short that only happens in the water or there is a back pressure issue. I did find a excessive dry-rot in the exhaust bellows...
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:12 PM   #14
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Please define the current symptoms. Does the engine crank (turn over), spit/sputter, try to start, ...? Is it running at all?

It was running before and all you did was change the breaker, correct?

Back pressure makes no sense unless the dry bellows has collapsed shut, never see that happen usually tear off.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:33 PM   #15
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Let's start from scratch...
Current symptoms: Starts on land with the muffs, while pumping the throttle. Brought to operating temp and restarted several times.
While in the water at the ramp starts.
After being anchored up (out drive either down or in trailer) the engine will turn over but not start. One time in the water it did eventually start, and ran fine all the way back to the ramp (about 20 min).
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:59 PM   #16
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I've have to take 80amp fusible link for $800 Alex.....

On top of your starter positive lug, is a 80amp fusible link. It's job is to hold back amp if you make the mistake of running on boat batteries.

It's power your engine and boat harness.

If it is pissed off, when it get hot, it breaks the circuit, to save you and your boat, until it melts.

So, bend your head upside down and backwards, to see what your looks like.

It's about $24 item, but this is the first fuses inline for power to your craft.


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Old 09-12-2013, 06:56 PM   #17
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I just replaced the starter and there was not one of these on it...
So, there is not one on it now. I take it, there should be one?

There is only one battery as well.

BTW, THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP SO FAR!
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:06 PM   #18
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If it turns over, but won't start, it isn't the fusable link - even if there was one.

Are you saying it won't start when on the water shortly after you shut it down, or it won't start on the water 30 minutes to an hour or more after you shut it down?

I think you're going to have to diagnose this on the water to truly replicate the conditions. It can only be one of two things; no spark or no fuel. When it decides to not start you'll have to veryify which of those two are not present. My guess at this point is spark. What ignition system is installed?
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:49 PM   #19
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I can smell the fuel with the engine bay open, and have witnessed the fuel spraying into the carb when trying to start.

Guessing the standard ignition system; distributor.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:04 PM   #20
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I think your problem is heat related, not anything to do with the water the boat sitting in.

the positive battery lead turn the engine over, the wire on the fuse is only to feed power to the harnesses.

much like a car horn... (in the old days), they were directly powered off the battery.

also, the only other thing directly powered is the trim pump, as you can trailer up, with the battery switches off.
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