Jeff,
Yeah, completely replacing all the battery wires with the correct length would be the absolute best, and cleanest, way to do it but I see no problem with installing heavy duty lugs/posts and then adding extension cables to the relocated battery switch. In fact, this is how it's done in my wifes car as well as mine - both have the batteries in the trunk.
Your existing battery cables are probably 2AWG (they were on my 2004 2400 SC3) so you'll want to stick with that. Depending on how far away you want to move the switch you might consider 0AWG but then you may run into an issue with the posts, and space, on the back of the switch itself - depends on what gauge wire it was designed to accept. If you're only adding a few feet #2 will be fine.
When I added my battery switch I was able to locate it on the outside of the engine box, just under a removeable seat bottom. With the seat bottom in place the switch is pretty well protected from legs or anything else, and I don't have to open anything to get to it.
Decide on a location, carefully measure the length of each cable you'll need - accounting for bends and some slack, then either have the cables made or go to West Marine and make them up yourself - which is what I did (they sell the bulk cable, the connectors, and the shrink wrap. The have a heavy duty crimper, but they won't make the cables for you). If you use lugs/posts to extend the cables make sure you have something to cover the posts to prevent accidental contact.
It'll take some thought and planning but is definitely doable.
Dan




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