Damn, water in the oil!

[jamanati]

Have a 95 3200 scr with twin 5.7 merc and bravo II. This past summer I had the port motor stall one day. A quick look, I had some white stuff in the valve cover. No water in the oil pan though. I pulled the elbows and manifolds and looks like the water came from there. I replaced both manifolds and elbow on that engine as well as the other. Changed the oil and filter, and I thought I was good. Winterizing them both this past weekend, same motor, when doing the oil change, I popped off the oil filter and it was the coffee colored with cream color, damn it. Looking in the valve covers, damn, white stuff again. I drained the oil, changed the filter, and filled it back up with fresh oil and a new filter. Today I pulled I drained the block again and pulled off both elbows, the manifolds inside were nice and dry, only having the black coating, no rust. Okay, good that its not coming from there, but now I guess next step is to pull the intake manifold, maybe a bad gasket there. If not, then exhaust manis need to come off and everything to get the heads off is probably next step. Or, I'm hoping someone here has seen something like this and can chime in and save me a ton of headaches. Yeah, I know, wishful thinking, but I figured to ask anyway.

[pascavone]

You could throw parts at it, or just do a compression test and see if your head gasket is leaking.

You could run the thing with the mainifold cooler hose off, and see it your getting water in the oil.
This would elimate your mainifolds.
But if its that foamy, i would say head gaskets.
Remember , that water will sink to the bottom of the oil pan, and the oil rides on top, so you might not see it on the dip stick.

[seapuppy]

well....I see 2 things that might have this issue...first off....when you initially got the water intrusion from the manifolds...the water had already gotten into the oil...so...the usual thing is to change the oil.....run it till it warms right up to operating temp...then change the oil..gotta do this something like 3 times...the other way is to get a qt of engine mechanic......pour that high detergent cleaner into the crankcase and run it for about 10 - 15 min...then pump it all out...change filter...then put fresh oil in the engine.....from there ....check compression on every cylinder....that will show you faster than anything if you have a blown head gasket......if you do..then you can go and pull the heads ..have them trued and new gaskets installed.....

that's what I'd do....


SP

[Capt Al]

I had a similar sounding scenario when my manifolds, elbows and spacers went beyond their lifespan (eight years in brackish water). First thing I did was hand crank the engines over with plugs out to remove excess water, then replaced the manifolds, risers,spacers and changed the oil and filters. That did the trick for me but it sounds like you've done the same so the water must be further in your block...

[cunuck]

I had the same thing on my 5.7 it was head gasket Do a compression test the head gaskets are week my leak was on #4#6 good luck.

[jamanati]

Thanks all. Compression test is something I'll do again before proceeding any further. Over the summer when I had frothy white stuff in my valve covers, I did do a compression test at that time, all cylinders were okay. I did replace the oil and filter at that time as well and I remember the oil looked like oil, not like coffee with cream. Since I pulled my risers off already and the exhaust manifolds are clean, maybe this leak is now a different leak, so a compression test is right on the mark. If they leak, I guess its head work time. If they don't, its either the intake manifold gasket leaking or a bad block. Could it be anything else other than that?

[cunuck]

You could have the riser and manifolds pressure tested for leaks .I changed my riser out to be safe and then tested them.Just a Idea good luck

[shrew]

When the motor stalled were you underway? If so, how fast were you going? What happened when the motor stalled? Did you pull the running motor into neutral at time? When underway, if you were to simply shut of both engines while running the wake that is following you will catch up to you and more than likely push water up the outdrive exhause and into the exhaust ports. Because the engine isn't running, the force of the exhaust isn't present to keep the water from going up the exhaust Y, into the risers and manifolds and into the exhaust port. (Ask me how I know about this LOL).

Does this sound like the conditions on the day the motor stalled? If so, you only need to perform a handful of oil changes. i'd suggest about 5. Run the engine up to operating temp., then for about another 5 min. Then shut the motor down, do another oil change and repeat.

Otherwise there is a leak somewhere like the head gasket or manifolds.

[pascavone]

I thought there is a one way valve flapper in the mainfold to prevent the wake back wash you are talking about.

I'm told that flapper can be stuck.

[shrew]

I believe that when the exhaust is external it is a 'Flapper', internal to the Y valve I think they call it a 'shutter valve'. It is down at the top of each pipe in the Y, not in the manifolds or the risers. They can and do get stuck and aren't the best designed pieces of equipment. Had a friend experience inversion simply from backing up too hard even though the motor was running.

BTW- was my description accurate. Are those the conditions that caused this to occur?