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Old 11-10-2014, 11:32 AM   #21
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Yes, you would have to take it out, or get to the back of it somehow, then just test for continuity between the terminals in the various positions.

Yes, you will want to disconnect the battery when not in use and/or keep the battery on a charger/battery maintainer. I would think your boat has a battery switch, doesn't it?
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:09 PM   #22
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To test the ignition switch there should be no continuity between B and any other terminal when the key is in the off position. When the key is in the run position there should be continuity between B and I terminals and final when the key is in the start position there should be continuity between all terminals; B, I, and C.

Once you have charged the battery and try to start the boat do you hear a click, does it crank, anything?

While it is preferred to disconnect the battery when not in use to me there is an issue that something is drawing a fair amount of power that is not being switched off when the engine is off. Is there electronics directly wired to the battery?
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:02 PM   #23
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^^^ What he said. :-)
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:15 PM   #24
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The stereo amplifier is connected to the battery via a massive cable that has its own fuse. @ Kevlar7r- Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get a good charge on the battery but even a decent charge yesterday had absolutely no clicking or anything when switching the key to the run position, as stated before, not even the low oil pressure alarm sounds! If my boat has a battery switch, I have no clue where it is?
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Old 11-10-2014, 11:18 PM   #25
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Why don't you try disconnecting the battery, and hooking the charger up directly. What size is your battery charger? Hopefully at least 10 amps. 24 hours on that should get you there.
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Old 11-11-2014, 12:24 AM   #26
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Why don't you try disconnecting the battery, and hooking the charger up directly. What size is your battery charger? Hopefully at least 10 amps. 24 hours on that should get you there.
+1 is the amp on a switch? If not it is drawing power all the time including from the battery charger. Disconnect it a and see if the battery charges faster

PS a battery switch will not disconnect that amp that is directly wired to the battery
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Old 11-12-2014, 07:47 PM   #27
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Ok so I connected a loose wire I had laying around in the garage to the positive on the stereo amp, (which the test light showed I have constant power) to the constant power prong on the back of the key switch and voila, turn the key and everything works, both alarm beep and the boat cranks! Key switch is fine now to follow that constant power line (purple with red stripe) back and see where the fault is!
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Old 11-12-2014, 09:08 PM   #28
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BWAHAHAHAHAHAH.....HAHAHAHAHA....


Ok now I can stop laughing at myself. (typing while having a couple whisky's!)

I traced that power wire back to the fuse panel, I checked the fuses though, remember!? Well I decided to throw a brand new fuse is there and done! The fuse I did pull out was not blown, just had some corrosion going on inside. I guess a fuse doesn't need to be 'blown' to be bad! At least I can say I learned a bit about the electrical system in the boat!

Supposed to be 78 this weekend so I notified the folks of a re-schedule, looks like a Sunday-funday on the water, with a little bar hopping & football mixed in! Thanks to all for the help, especially mmwjr (Mike)! Now back to this whisky...
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:57 PM   #29
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Yup. Welcome to boating!!!! Glad it ended up being something simple!!! What's the whisky of choice?
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:29 AM   #30
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Knob Creek for today! I mix it up and typically drink what we have in the house at the time.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:57 AM   #31
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Glad to hear you resolved the issue. Some have had to replace their fuse panel due to corrosion issues with the contacts.

Now that the boat is running find some free time to learn how to use a volt meter as it will help to resolve future problems quicker.

BTY pour one for me
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:10 PM   #32
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That was happening with mine. You can unseat, then reseat the blade fuses. Do it several times. It will scrape the corrosion off of the fuse and the connections on the bus. I ended up replacing both fuse panels and all the fuses and went from slide on connectors to ring terminals.
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Old 11-13-2014, 03:19 PM   #33
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@ mmwjr, picked up a quality volt meter an electrician friend gave me and learning for sure!

Strange thing is that one fuse was the only corroded one on the panel. I had a radio issue a few weeks back and checked all the fuses, I think by pulling it I messed up the little connection it did have...

Now to diagnose the leaking drive fluid. Not that bad I guess? I just have to add a few ounces after every trip out.
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:13 PM   #34
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This will be a new thread, but where is it leaking to? Do you see an oil sheen on the water, or is it ending up in your bilge?
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:46 PM   #35
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Not in the bilge. I have not seen anything on the water either, maybe it is too small an amount!?

A mod should re-title the thread, "SoCalMX's bonehead noob problem solving thread!"
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:49 PM   #36
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A few ounces after each trip does not seem small. I would be concerned if a seal in the outdrive water may be entering as well. You may want to loosen the drain plug to see if any water comes out. Better yet drain it and perform a leak down test then refill if ok.
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:08 PM   #37
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Loosen the drain plug for the outdrive? Will try and locate.
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:51 AM   #38
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Front starboard side of outdrive bullet.
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:22 AM   #39
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What the SPAM!
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Old 04-23-2015, 04:47 PM   #40
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Quote:
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What the SPAM!
I got him.
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