15" fold-down TV/DVR mounted in ceiling

[jeffmeans]

Been thinking about mounting a 15" TV/DVR combo in the lower cabin of my 2001 2900 SCR. The wife doesn't like toting her large-screen laptop to the boat everytime so the boys (age 5 and 6) can watch movies, etc... again this coming season due to the wear and tear packing it back and forth. Does anyone know what sized screws I'd use to drill into the headliner/how thick the ceiling is? That would be disastrous if I ended up drilling through to outside the foredeck/bow area! When Maxum was still building boats in the Everett, WA area I used to have a good contact for questions like this @ U S Marine (Rick Foss is his name). Evidently he doesn't work for Brunswick/U S Marine anymore (left when Brunswick scuttled some of their plants a couple years ago) so I have no clue who I would go to now @ U S Marine get this info. My other option is a pedestal-mount-style TV/DVR combo that sits on the shelf above the small closet which wouldn't require drilling into the ceiling of course... but would take up more room on the shelf I'd like to keep for storage, etc...

I haven't figured out how to attach a picture on this Forum of exactly where I want to mount this thing (ceiling OR shelf) but it's on the shelf, above the closet, just before the V-Berth, port-side.

[seapuppy]

well...for direct questions about maxum/bayliner products...contact jim Garrity at 425-885-2628 and let him know I sent you...he has an amazing ability to find drawings of older boats or get answers to your questions...
2nd...if I get this right...your wanting to drill into either the overhead panels or the shelf on the galley assembly....now...most of the newer boats are drilling into the side of the galley assembly....by removing the microwave will give you access to the cabinet area to attack washers and a locking bolt...

some models have been installed on the stbd side cabinet ...when I had my 2700 scr ...I added a swing arm to the fwd bkhd of the head...drilled all the way thru and added stainless steel washers and locking nuts...could swing the tv in any direction to watch it....
http://baylinerownersclub.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12367&g2_serialNumber=2.jpg

even had my redneck sat dish and my dvd player sitting right on the console there.....worked great for about 4 yrs till we upgraded to what we have now...

SP

[jeffmeans]

Jim Garrity was a big help... he checked and confirmed that the foredeck thickness is "between 1/2 and 3/4"! That's a little too close for my comfort to drill into, so we won't be buying the fold-down-from-the-ceiling, 15" model. Instead we'll simply get one that sits on a pedestal and is both 12V/120V compatible (or just use the inverter).

Hard to believe the foredeck can be that thin yet support people jumping off it, sunbathing, etc...

Thanks, SeaPuppy...

[shrew]

Take a look at the specs for the TV. MANY of the smaller LCD/LED Tv's are actually 12VDC. They come with a brick that (inverts?) 120VAC to 12VDC anyway. Inverters DC to AC are notorious for loss. It is my understanding that it is better to go from 12VDC to 12VDC. In this case it sounds like you'd go from 12VDC to 120 VAC, then back to 12VDC in the process loosing a ton of Amp Hours. I've been reading on some cruising forums of people either using 12VDC TV's or cutting/bypassing the brick. I've been in the process of researching some of this.

I think for simplicity sake, I'm going with a 12VDC TV. When you're on shore power or genny, the battery charger will push the batteries which push the TV just like your stereo.

Again, this is what I understand from reading some other forums. An Electrical Engineer would be able to provide far more info. I'm still in the process of researching myself.

[jeffmeans]

Schrew; I've thought the same thing... NOTHING really runs on 120VAC, practically all appliances have a "step-down" transformer to a lower voltage, sometimes it's built in to the cabinet/chassis of the unit, sometimes it's in the form of an external adapter. And I agree that the brick thing you're describing seems like a lot of wasted amps/wattage.

Problem is going to be finding a combo TV/DVR that large (prefer a 15" screen) that runs on 12VDC exclusively. I'll be doing some eBay and BestBuy surfing soon to find it.

[rgreenwell8962]

I am in the process of doing this exact same thing. I am going to go look at a swivel mount for an lcd that swivels 180 degrees. It is made to mount on a wall, but I am thinking of mounting it to the top of the shelf above the coat closet. If it swivels enough, I will be able to mount it this way as opposed to mounting it on the wall, as it is designed to do. Then I can bolt it through the top of the coat closet (shelf) fore of the head which is at least 3/4 inch thick wood. I am still considering the step down idea. I am not sure how much draw on my house batteries it would have when I am on the hook. If there is a lot of draw, then I will just use it when connected to shore power. It would be nice to use it on the hook, but without a genset, I may run through my battery pretty quick.

[tjwieseler]

Look at the Insignia brand, I believe all of their LED tv's operate at 12vt DC. There was another post on here that sugested a brand that Target carried, here is the link http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php/2471-Nice-19-quot-TV

[tjwieseler]

Here is where I installed mine in a 2400SCR http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php/1732-Adding-a-10-quot-Subwoofer/page2

[shrew]

15" 12V TV/DVD combo's are out there:

http://www.directdepot.net/product_info.php?products_id=27028

If you'd prefer larger, here's a 22":

http://www.directdepot.net/product_info.php?products_id=23990


The "Marine" TV's I've seen seem to be a lot more money. I think a non-marine would be just fine for inside a cabin.

[jeffmeans]

Okay, I bought the 19" TV-DVD Player-combo from Best Buy and determined it will just BARELY fit where I want it. Tried to mount it with this bracket (http://www.buy.com/prod/swivel-tilt-flat-panel-wall-mount-for-most-15-17-19-20-22-in-lcd-led/q/loc/111/217327644.html) this weekend while doing a bunch of other projects on Endless Summer and couldn't---the bracket needed to be moved UP about 1", but the shelf in the picture was in the way.

Here's my question; does anyone know what this shelf is made of underneath the vinyl covering? Hopefully it's marine-grade plywood or something like that, that's fairly sturdy... as the top lag-bolt of the bracket assembly will be putting a lot of "torque" on that shelf with a 25 pound TV & bracket assembly mounted to it. I'm just going to mount a small block of attractive wood to "raise up/out" the wall so it's even with the shelf and mount the bracket base there.... but want to know what this "galley-shelf" (see oval highlighted) is made of underneath the white covering.

Thanks in advance...

[seapuppy]

Actually ...being an electron bender....I think I know these things..(not always true..but I like to think I'm smarter than the average bear)....
the 120vac tv's are stepped down to 12vdc...that is the voltage most of the new elex. run at now days...amazing isn't it...we used to have to step a tv up to 240 vdc...
now Jeff...that area is not going to support lag bolts...If I were you ..I'd drill some bolts with stop nuts and large washers on the inside...they don't have to be extra long ..but the cabinets are made from pressed fiberboard under the lamenant...(saw that when we toured the factory a few yrs ago)...then covered with wood tape lamenant coverings....

yes they make tv's with dvd combo units....the cool thing about them is it's all in one unit...the bad thing about it is if one unit goes out...toss the whole thing.....
they will draw about 3-5 amps...so a 10 - 15amp inline fuse is recommended.....other than that..it's pretty straight forward...
black wire to black or neg...red wire to the hot side of the batt....

SP

[shrew]

I'm pretty sure whether that is veneer covered plywood or partical/fiber board. I'm not sure whether they'd spend the money on marine grade plywood for that application. I would think it should be sturdy enough.

[jeffmeans]

All the other wood I've sawed through on Endless Summer looks like plywood so I was hoping this would be also. SP?---I can't put stop nuts and washers on the back-side of the TOP screw/bolt as it's going into the "horizontal" top shelf of the galley (kind of difficult to describe, but I need that extra "inch or so" of height to make this whole thing fit). But the LOWER bolt/screw... now THAT thing can definetely be mounted with a bolt, stop nut and large washer because it's going into the [I]vertical[I] "wall" of the galley cupboard. In fact, I can even gain access to the back-side of that wall by removing the inside of the cupboard area. Attached is another "modified" photo of where the bracket's base will be mounted (see heavy, black line simulating the bracket's mounting base). Take another look at the bracket I bought from www.buy.com (http://www.buy.com/prod/swivel-tilt-flat-panel-wall-mount-for-most-15-17-19-20-22-in-lcd-led/q/loc/111/217327644.html) to see how it mounts to a wall.

[seapuppy]

jeff
I understand what your saying...I even have the exact same mount that I installed in my midberth tv...but slide it down some to just below the lip of the top shelf....that should allow you to drill the holes...sorry it's normal wood but it's pressed fiberboard...I'm exactly 100 % positive of that.......

SP

[jeffmeans]

That's just it... if I mount the TV bracket snug under the lip of that white shelf (as far UP as it can go) the TV drags along the shelf just UNDER it (the closet top). So I've got to move it UP about 3/4" and drill directly into that white shelf for the top hole so the TV can swing freely with the new bracket. I'll pre-drill with a smaller hole to maximize holding power and also use a bolt/nut and large washer assembly on the BOTTOM hole. I think I'll also glue a sturdy, custom-cut hardwood "backing" behind the wall since I can gain access to it by dismantling the cupboard behind it all.

Other than that, I don't know what else I can do to insure it won't pull the cabinet apart... wait, I just thought of another idea! I can send you the bill for a replacment cabinet if I find it splintered and in a pile of sawdust since you're the high-paid Super Moderator who confirmed this mount will work!---just kidding.

[seapuppy]

I didn't say it would work....I said it was made of pressed sawdust and i wouldn't put it there...hahaha



Sp

[rgreenwell8962]

What if you were to attach the bracket horizontally, instead of vertically. Yes, this would probably negate your ability to swivel back and forth, and you soule only be able to tile up and down, but at least you would have a secure mount.
What about this mount
http://www.buy.com/prod/inland-titan-pro-3200-full-motion-wall-mount-up-to-32-or-50lb-tvs-black/q/loc/101/214522253.html
I am still thinking about doing this same thing, just havent bit the bullet yet.
If nothing else works just duck tape the heck out of the sucker right to the wall.

Please post pics once you are done.

RIch

[seapuppy]

yep..getting a different mount would help alot......

SP

[jeffmeans]

That mount might be better, but until you've got it in your hands and can put it on the wall it's impossible to know how it will fit. There's just no wiggle-room in this space because I bought too big of a TV (although the 15 inch models were all too tall, this 19" model has the shortest profile). I think I've got this figured out, and how to mount it... I'll take pictures of before and after after this weekend when I'm out on Endless Summer (she's moored an hour away from me) and post them here.

Thanks, folks...

[Nimh]

Yeah, I'm curious how this goes too, as we've been thinking of heading down the path too. I like the mount that Rich posted above, but I'm concerned about how it will hold up if we get into some rough water. Hours of hard bouncing could take its toll on a cantilevered mount depending on the weight of the TV.

...and another site with some mounts I found - a couple of pages.
http://www.meritline.com/tv-wall-mount---c-13552.aspx?ss=1

Looking forward to the pics, Jeff.

[rgreenwell8962]

When I get around to doing this, I am going to mount it on the starboard shelf above the coat closet fore of the head. I will lose that space as a shelf, but it is at least an inch thick so I can put some pretty hefty bolts through there.

[seapuppy]

Yeah, I'm curious how this goes too, as we've been thinking of heading down the path too. I like the mount that Rich posted above, but I'm concerned about how it will hold up if we get into some rough water. Hours of hard bouncing could take its toll on a cantilevered mount depending on the weight of the TV.

...and another site with some mounts I found - a couple of pages.
http://www.meritline.com/tv-wall-mount---c-13552.aspx?ss=1

Looking forward to the pics, Jeff.

Jim...stop by my boat this weekend ..provided the weather doesn't totally suck....I will show you the one in my midberth...I think it will work on your boat..
got it from costco..

SP

[Nimh]

Cool. I'll try and drop by. As of today at least, the weekend weather is looking promising. C'mon sunshine!

[seapuppy]

we're thinking of hitting everett's j-dock....wanna join??


SP

[jeffmeans]

Talk about barely fitting! I've got MAYBE an eighth of an inch of "wiggle-room" on this after installing it. I got about the biggest TV I could get it looks like to fit in this space. One of my concerns was the "torque" on the cabinet wall to which the TV bracket is mounted. Thankfully I could gain access to the back-side of it by removing the (inside) forward "wall" of the upper cabinet, so I glued a custom-cut piece of hardwood on the inside to give me that much more "support" on the bracket when the TV is "hanging" out there. As it turned out, the TV actually rests (somewhat) on the shelf it swings above in certain positions, so I don't think there will be any cabinets being pulled apart... too bad, also as I wanted to send SeaPuppy the bill to replace the cabinet! And I doubt we'll have to "secure it" when we're underway due to the fact that it can be tilted so it rests on the shelf below. You'll notice I had to remove the CO Detector to make it easier to drill (see the wires coming out of the ceiling?) good thing I did because the black ground wire has never been connected to this thing! They're so darned sensitive I'll probably install the same "cord switch" for on/off as I did for our mid-berth CO Detector. And these photos may come out upside-down, I don't know why they got transmitted that way... sorry!