Multiple electrical problems - related?

[Bulldog6]

I've read all of the posts regarding electrical problems - now I have some insight into how to start fixing things, but I'd thought I'd post a question anyway.

I have a 2000 Maxum 1900 SR. It ran fine last year. I've had it out twice so far this year, but have had some electrical problems.

On my first time out, turning the ignition did absolutely nothing - no sound, nothing at all. A few tries later and it started right up. On my second outing, I had similar problems getting it started the first time. After running for about 30 min, I shut it down for a couple of minutes and went to restart - same problem. . . nothing. Again, after a few tries it started.

I'm having other electrical problems - the trim doesn't go up except with the trailer switch - I've read the WD-40 suggestions and will try that. My stereo doesn't work - it worked last year, this year it doesn't. My lights don't work - they didn't last year either (no night boating for me).

I just fully charged my battery (only a year old), so I know that it's okay.

Are all of these problems related - other than being electrical?

Thanks for any help.

[seapuppy]

welcome to the zoo...electrical problems are hard to chase down...sounds like some corrosion problems...so..you may need to follow the wires to different connectors and blocks...then take them apart and clean the connections with contact cleaner...then use some dielectric grease to keep the corrosion factor down....
you don't say if your in salt water but any dissimilar metals will cause it....plus air...plus salt..and you have serious corrrosion..

Sp

[ss3964spd]

Welcome aboard BD.

To be clear, when you turn the key to the "On" position (just before twisting it all the way to start) you should hear the alarm sound for a few seconds then it should stop.

If you don't even hear the alarm in the On position, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to the Start position, I'd be inclined to suspect the ignition switch itself, or the wiring at the back of the switch.

Regarding the trim switch. If it's like mine pushing the trim switch up slightly will raise the drive only to a preset position (best running angle when on plane) and then it will stop. If you push the switch past it's detent - the trailer position, it'll raise the drive all the way. Easy to verify with the boat in the water or on the trailer with the engine off. As long as the battery is On the switch will raise and lower the drive since the trim pump is probably wired directly to the battery. If the drive won't raise unless you push the switch past it's detent try the WD40 trick or replace the switch.

The radio and lights not working is unrelated to the other problems. Check their fuses first.

Dan

[CountryME]

Bulldog,
I too have a 2000 1900 SR (new to me last summer) and had the exact same problems you are describing. Intermittent starting problems, nav lights wouldn't work, and only the trailer switch would work to raise the outdrive. I have solved all of these gremlins. Here were the fixes I found.

Starting problem was traced to the wiring from the fuse panel to the switch. The salt air corroded the fuse panel and the spade connectors on the wire ends. I solved this and many other electrical gremlins by replacing the entire fuse panel with a blue sea marine fuse block. Cost me ~$50 and 2 hours to replace all the spade connectors with ring connectors.

Nav lights were traced to the fuse block and the bulbs inside the fixtures having a corrosion film preventing contact. Open up the nav lights and clean the contacts .

Trim switch was traced to the trim sender on the outdrive. There is a safety feature where the trim up will only lift the drive so far and then the trailer switch needs to be used to lift it the rest of the way. Remove the cover on the sender unit on the left side (port) of the outdrive. Clean all the electrical contacts inside the sender with emery paper and electrical cleaner

Hope this helps. Good luck and safe boating.

-JP

[CountryME]

Also, the tell tale for the ignition switch was when I turned the key, the depth sounder would go blank and then reset (it was losing the power from the switch). If you aren't experiencing a similar issue, I would recommend checking and cleaning the connections at the starter.

[Bulldog6]

Thanks for the quick responses and insight. I'll be a connection-cleaning machine on Friday with hopes of having her running well by the weekend!

Awesome site - wish I had found it earlier!

[shrew]

I also had to replace my fuse bus recently for the same reason. Undoubtedly corrosion is the root culprit here. In my case, what tipped me off after hours of troubleshooting was not a bad fuse, but a good fuse that was resolved when I replaced with a NEW fuse. Turns out the fuses, the spade connections on the bus and the wire connectors themselves were all heavily oxidized. If that is the case, replace the fuse bus as well. The wire connectors and spades on the bus don't corrode and lave the backplane of the bus itself pristine. if everything connected to the bus is corroded, including the tabs, the backplane is corroded too. So cleaning the parts that are exposed will only solve part of the problem.

don't forget the battery cable connectors and the connectors to the starter and ground. That also caused a similar starting issue last year. This is a time consumming but relatively easy task as long as you're methodical.

[CountryME]

Let us know how things worked out Bulldog.